Quick answer: which thread should you start with?
For most beginners, six-strand cotton embroidery floss is the easiest place to start. It is widely sold, comes in a very large range of colours, and can be split into separate strands so one skein gives you fine lines or bolder ones. Once you are comfortable, other threads such as perle cotton, wool and silk each add a different texture.
Main types of hand embroidery thread
Stranded cotton (embroidery floss)
Stranded cotton is made of six thin strands loosely twisted together. You pull strands apart and recombine them, so you can use one, two, three or more at a time depending on how delicate or bold you want the stitching to look. It suits most surface embroidery, from backstitch outlines to satin stitch fills.
Perle (pearl) cotton
Perle cotton is a twisted thread that does not separate into strands. It has a soft sheen and gives stitches a slightly raised, textured look. It is usually sold in numbered sizes, and a higher number generally means a thinner thread. Common sizes include 3, 5, 8 and 12. It works well for running stitch, French knots and stitches where you want a defined line.
Wool
Wool yarn is traditionally used for crewel embroidery and other textured work. Fine crewel wool and thicker tapestry yarns are available. Wool is usually paired with a needle with a larger eye and a fabric that can handle the extra bulk, such as linen twill or a firm wool fabric.
Silk
Silk thread is often chosen for very fine work, including needle painting, because it has a smooth finish and a soft glow. It can be more expensive and may snag on rough fingertips, so many stitchers keep it for special projects.
Rayon and other specialty threads
Rayon and similar synthetic threads have a high sheen, but they can be slippery and may tangle more easily than cotton. There are also regional or specialty cottons, such as Danish flower thread and Mountmellick cotton, for particular styles of work. Metallic threads are another option, usually used in small amounts as highlights; see our tips for embroidery with metallic thread.
How strands and thread sizes work
With stranded cotton, thickness is controlled by the number of strands in your needle. Fewer strands give finer detail, while more strands give coverage and a bolder line. Patterns often specify a strand count, and it is worth following it the first time so you can see how it looks before adjusting to your taste.
Perle cotton and wool are labelled differently, with size numbers or ply descriptions. Because brands vary a little, a quick test stitch on a scrap of your project fabric is the most reliable way to check how a thread will look.
Matching thread to fabric and stitch
- Fine, tightly woven fabric pairs well with fewer strands of floss or a thin perle cotton.
- Heavier fabric such as linen or denim can handle more strands, perle cotton or wool.
- Filled shapes often use stranded cotton or silk, since the strands lie flat and blend smoothly.
- Texture and outlines such as knots and chain stitch often look best in perle cotton.
The thread, the needle and the fabric should work together. If the thread drags or leaves large holes, either the needle is too small or the thread is too thick for the weave. Our guide to the best fabric for embroidery explains how to choose a fabric that suits your thread.
Can I use normal sewing thread for embroidery?
You can, and some people do for very fine detail or practical repairs, but it is not usually recommended for general hand embroidery. Regular sewing thread is thin and tightly twisted, so it tends to give a flat, sparse look and cannot be divided into strands. Embroidery threads are made to cover fabric and show colour and sheen. If you do try sewing thread, expect to use it doubled or to stitch more densely.
Is Hobby Lobby thread good quality? What about Madeira?
Quality varies by brand and product line, and opinions differ among stitchers, so it is hard to give a single answer. Craft-store house brands are often affordable and fine for practice and casual projects. Well-known brands such as DMC are widely used and easy to find in a consistent colour range. Madeira is a European thread maker whose range includes both hand and machine embroidery threads; check the label to confirm which type you are buying, since machine threads are made for machine use. If colour fastness matters, for example on items that will be washed often, it can help to test a small sample first.
Preparing and handling thread
- Cut lengths of roughly forearm length (around 45 cm) to reduce tangling and fraying as you stitch.
- Separate stranded cotton one strand at a time, then recombine the strands you need, which helps them lie smoothly.
- Let the needle hang occasionally to untwist the thread.
- Keep the skein labels so you can match colours later. Our guide to how to organise and store embroidery thread has practical ideas.
Buying tips for beginners
- Start with a small set of colours you like rather than a huge box.
- Pick one thread type for your first project so you can learn how it behaves.
- Buy a few needles in different sizes.
- Buy extra of a colour if you plan a large area of fill, as dye lots can differ slightly between batches.
FAQ
What are the different types of embroidery thread?
The most common are stranded cotton, perle cotton, wool, silk, rayon and metallic threads.
Which thread is best for a first embroidery project?
Six-strand cotton floss is the usual recommendation, because it is easy to find and flexible.
Do I need to use all six strands?
No. Many designs use two or three strands. Follow your pattern, or test on scrap fabric.