Short answer
For hand embroidery, a medium-weight, tightly woven natural fabric such as 100% cotton or linen is generally the best place to start. These fabrics are stable, easy for the needle to pass through and hold stitches well. For counted work such as cross-stitch, a counted-thread fabric such as Aida (a block weave) or an evenweave is the usual choice.
Plain weave vs evenweave
Fabrics for embroidery are often grouped into two broad kinds.
- Plain weave fabrics have a tight, regular weave. You stitch wherever you like, following a drawn or transferred design. Cotton, linen and many blends belong here.
- Evenweave fabrics have the same number of threads in each direction, so you can count the threads or holes to place stitches. Linen evenweave is one example; Aida is a related block-weave cloth with a visible grid of squares.
A third group, often called heavy or specialty fabrics, includes canvas and denim for sturdier projects. Some guides list three types in this way: plain weave, evenweave and heavier or open-weave canvases. Classifications differ between sources.
Best fabrics for beginners
Cotton
Medium-weight cotton, including quilting cotton, is often recommended first. It is affordable, easy to find and comes in many colours. Look for a tight weave and avoid very thin or loosely woven cotton. Plain calico or muslin is a low-cost option for practising stitches, though check that the weave is dense enough to support your stitches.
Linen and linen blends
Linen has a crisp, slightly textured look and is strong, so it holds dense stitching well. Cotton-linen blends are often easier to find and a little more forgiving to work with. Linen can be more expensive and may crease, but many stitchers love it.
Other blends
Cotton blends can work, as long as they are not stretchy. Check the label and test with a small stitch sample.
Fabrics for counted work
Aida has a visible grid of holes, which makes it popular for cross-stitch and for beginners learning to count. Evenweave fabrics such as Jobelan and linen evenweave have a finer, less obvious grid and are used for detailed cross-stitch. Fabric count, usually given as threads or squares per inch, determines the size of the stitches.
Heavier fabrics
Denim and canvas can be embroidered and suit bags, jackets and jeans. They are thicker, so you may need a sharper needle and thicker thread such as perle cotton. Our guide to threads for hand embroidery explains which threads suit heavier fabrics.
What is the easiest fabric to embroider on?
Most beginners find plain, medium-weight cotton the easiest, as it is stable and the needle passes through smoothly. For counted designs, Aida is typically considered the simplest to start with.
Fabrics that are harder or best avoided at first
- Stretchy knits such as jersey can distort as you stitch, and stitches may pull. They can be embroidered with a stabiliser, but beginners usually find them challenging.
- Very thin or sheer fabrics can show thread behind them and may pucker.
- Very loose weaves may not support the stitches.
- Slippery or delicate fabrics such as satin or silk can be difficult to hold taut and may mark from the needle.
- Very thick or tightly coated fabrics such as vinyl or leather are difficult to pass a needle through by hand. Leather suits its own tools and stitching methods; see leatherworking as a hobby.
So there is no fabric that you absolutely cannot embroider on, but some need stabilisers, special needles or experience.
About the “forbidden stitch”
You may see this phrase in online searches. It is often linked to a story about a very fine knot stitch said to have harmed embroiderers’ eyesight, and it is generally treated as folklore rather than a standard stitch you need to learn. For reliable stitches to start with, look at backstitch, satin stitch, stem stitch and French knots.
Preparing fabric
- Prewash if the item will be laundered, to reduce shrinking later. Iron the fabric flat.
- Use a hoop to keep the fabric taut but not stretched out of shape.
- Add a stabiliser if the fabric is thin or stretchy.
- Test your thread on a scrap before starting the real project.
Finished pieces can be stored neatly; our article on how to organise and store embroidery thread can help you keep the supplies in order, and our tips on embroidery with metallic thread cover adding shine.
FAQ
What are the three types of fabric used in embroidery?
Sources differ, but a common grouping is plain weave, evenweave and heavier fabrics such as canvas.
What fabric can you not embroider on?
Nothing is entirely off limits, but very thin, stretchy, slippery or heavily coated fabrics are tricky without stabiliser or experience.
Is Aida only for cross-stitch?
It is mostly used for cross-stitch and counted work, though it is possible to use it for other stitches.