How Embroidery Stitches Are Grouped
There are hundreds of named embroidery stitches, and reference books catalogue several hundred of them. Most are variations on a small number of ideas. Instead of memorising names, it helps to sort stitches by the job they do on fabric:
- Line stitches make outlines, stems, letters and fine details.
- Filling stitches cover an area with thread.
- Knot and dot stitches add small raised texture.
- Looped stitches make chains, petals and leaves.
- Decorative and border stitches build patterns, bands and edges.
Counts vary depending on who is counting, so questions like “how many basic stitches are there?” have no single answer. Different teachers list 5, 6, 10 or more as “essentials”. The groups below are a practical way to choose rather than a fixed list.
Line and Outline Stitches
These are the stitches you will use most, and they are where most beginners start.
- Running stitch: a dashed line made by passing the needle in and out at even intervals. It is also used in Japanese sashiko-style patterns and for simple gathering.
- Back stitch: a solid, continuous line made by stitching backward to meet the previous stitch. See our step-by-step back stitch guide.
- Split stitch: the needle comes up through the middle of the previous stitch, giving a slightly twisted, rope-like line that follows curves well. Details are in our split stitch tutorial.
- Stem stitch: overlapping slanted stitches that form a smooth, rope-like line, often used for flower stems and curves.
- Chain stitch: linked loops that form a bold line, which can also be worked in rows as a filling.
Filling Stitches
Filling stitches cover a shape from edge to edge.
- Satin stitch: parallel straight stitches laid closely side by side for a smooth, slightly shiny surface. It works best on small shapes, because long stitches can snag.
- Long and short stitch: staggered stitches of different lengths that blend colors, often used for shading petals, animals and similar subjects.
- Fishbone and fly-based fills: angled stitches that meet along a central line, useful for leaves.
- Seed stitch: small scattered straight stitches that give a speckled texture.
Some stitchers also fill shapes with rows of split stitch or chain stitch, which gives a different, more textured look than satin.
Knot and Dot Stitches
Knot stitches create tiny raised bumps for flower centers, eyes, or filled textures. The French knot and colonial knot are the most familiar, and the bullion knot makes a longer, coiled shape. Our guide to embroidery knot stitches and how to knot off covers the common ones.
A note on the “forbidden stitch”: the name is often used for the Pekinese or Peking knot stitch, tied to a story that stitchers once lost their eyesight working fine detail with it. Treat that as folklore. The stitch itself is simply a knotted-looking line, and it is worth taking breaks and good light with any detailed stitching.
Looped, Decorative and Border Stitches
- Blanket stitch: a looped edge stitch used to finish edges and appliqué.
- Feather stitch and fly stitch: open looped stitches used for branches, leaves and borders.
- Herringbone stitch: crossed stitches that form a woven-looking band.
- Couching: laying a thread on the surface and tacking it down with small stitches, good for thick or metallic threads.
- Cross stitch: a small X stitch, sometimes mixed into freeform embroidery.
Machine Embroidery Stitch Types
Search results for this topic sometimes include machine embroidery, which uses different names. Digitised designs commonly rely on three types: satin stitch for borders and lettering, fill stitch for larger areas, and a walking (running) stitch for fine lines and details. The names overlap with hand stitching, but the techniques are not the same.
How to Choose a Stitch
- Outlines and letters: back stitch, split stitch or stem stitch.
- Curves: split or stem stitch tend to follow curves smoothly.
- Solid color: satin stitch for small shapes, long and short stitch for larger or shaded ones.
- Texture and dots: French knots or colonial knots.
- Borders and edges: blanket, feather or herringbone stitch.
If you are just starting, our list of basic hand embroidery stitches to learn first suggests a sensible order. Practise each on scrap fabric in a hoop before trying it on a project.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the easiest embroidery stitch?
Running stitch is widely regarded as the easiest, followed by back stitch and straight stitch.
What are the basic embroidery stitches?
Lists differ, but a common set is running stitch, back stitch, split stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch and French knot.
Which stitch is called the queen of embroidery?
Opinions vary and there is no official title. Some stitchers give that nickname to satin stitch or to stem stitch, so it is best treated as a figure of speech.