Which Stitches Count as Basic?
Different teachers give different lists. Many beginner guides settle on six: running stitch, back stitch, split stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch and the French knot. Others list five or ten. The set below is a practical one, because together these stitches cover lines, curves, filled areas and dots. For the wider picture, see our guide to embroidery stitch types.
Before You Start
- Fabric: a plain, medium-weight cotton or linen is easy to stitch through.
- Hoop: keeps the fabric taut but not drum-tight.
- Thread: six-strand embroidery floss is common. Separate the strands and recombine them rather than using all six at once; two or three strands is a typical starting point.
- Needle: an embroidery needle with an eye large enough for your thread.
Most stitches below are described as “up at 1, down at 2”, meaning the needle comes up from the back at point 1 and goes down at point 2.
1. Running Stitch
The simplest stitch.
- Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2.
- Come up a gap further along, and repeat at even intervals.
Use it for dashed outlines, simple borders and practising even spacing.
2. Back Stitch
A solid line.
- Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2.
- Come up at 3, one stitch length ahead of 2, then go back down at 2 (the end of the previous stitch).
- Repeat.
Good for outlines and lettering. Full instructions are in our back stitch guide.
3. Split Stitch
A line stitch with a twisted look.
- Make a straight stitch.
- Bring the needle up through the middle of that stitch, splitting the strands.
- Go down a stitch length ahead and repeat.
It follows curves nicely. See the split stitch step-by-step for tips on splitting cleanly.
4. Stem Stitch
Slanted, overlapping stitches that form a rope-like line.
- Make a first stitch from 1 to 2, then come up at 3, between them.
- Go down at a point ahead, then come up at the end of the previous stitch.
- Keep the thread on the same side of the needle each time.
Used for flower stems, vines and curved outlines.
5. Satin Stitch
Parallel stitches that fill a shape.
- Bring the needle up at one edge and down at the opposite edge.
- Come up right beside the first stitch and repeat, keeping stitches close and smooth.
Keep shapes small to start, as long stitches can loosen. An outline in back or split stitch first gives a cleaner edge.
6. French Knot
A small raised dot.
- Bring the needle up where you want the knot.
- Wrap the thread around the needle once or twice.
- Insert the needle close to, but not in, the exit hole, and pull through gently while holding the thread taut.
Use it for flower centers and eyes. More detail is in our knot stitches guide.
Suggested Learning Order
- Running stitch for even spacing.
- Back stitch for continuous lines.
- Stem or split stitch for curves.
- Satin stitch for fills.
- French knots for texture.
Common Beginner Mistakes
- Pulling thread too tight, which puckers the fabric.
- Starting with thread that is too long; around 40 to 50 cm (16 to 20 in) tangles less.
- Using too many strands for fine detail.
- Skipping a hoop on lightweight fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the five basic stitches in hand embroidery?
There is no official list. A common five is running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch and French knot.
What is the easiest stitch to learn?
Running stitch, then back stitch.
What is the forbidden stitch?
The name usually refers to the Peking knot stitch, tied to a story about stitchers losing their sight. It is folklore and not a stitch beginners need to avoid, though it is not a basic stitch either.