What Embroidery Is
Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric with a needle and thread. Hand embroidery needs very little equipment, which is a big part of why it suits beginners. A small kit of fabric, floss, a needle, a hoop and scissors is enough to begin.
If you are still deciding between needlework crafts, see how embroidery compares with cross stitch, needlepoint and punch needle.
Supplies You Need
- Fabric: a plain, firmly woven cotton or linen.
- Embroidery floss: six-strand cotton floss is the usual choice.
- Needles: embroidery (crewel) needles, which have a sharp point and a long eye.
- Hoop: a wooden or plastic two-ring hoop to hold the fabric taut.
- Small, sharp scissors: for clean thread ends.
- Transfer tool: a water-soluble or heat-erasable pen, or tracing paper, to mark your design.
Many beginners start with a kit, which bundles all of this with a pattern. Buying separately takes a little more thought but lets you choose your own colours.
Choosing Fabric, Floss and Needles
Fabric. A medium-weight, tightly woven cotton or linen is easy to stitch and holds well in a hoop. Very stretchy or very thin fabrics are harder to keep smooth, so save them for later.
Floss. Six-strand floss is made of strands you can separate. Using fewer strands gives finer lines; using more gives bolder, fuller stitches. Many patterns say how many strands to use, often two or three for general work. “3 strand embroidery” simply means separating three strands from the six and stitching with those.
Needles. Needles are numbered, and a lower number means a thicker needle. A common range for embroidery is roughly sizes 3 to 9. As a rule of thumb, choose a needle whose eye lets the thread pass easily and whose shaft makes a hole just large enough for the thread to follow. If you use more strands, you generally want a larger needle.
Preparing the Fabric and Hoop
- Cut fabric a few inches larger than the hoop on every side.
- Loosen the hoop screw and separate the rings.
- Lay the fabric over the inner ring and press the outer ring over it.
- Tighten the screw while gently pulling the fabric until it is taut but not stretched out of shape.
A well-hooped piece makes stitching easier and helps prevent puckering. Remove the hoop when you stop for a long period, since leaving fabric hooped can leave marks.
Transferring a Design
Common beginner methods include:
- Tracing onto light fabric with a water-soluble or heat-erasable pen, using a window or light box.
- Transfer paper or stick-on stabilizer patterns.
- Freehand drawing with a pencil for simple shapes.
Test any marking pen on a scrap first, because products differ in how they remove. For ideas on starter designs, see beginner embroidery projects and patterns.
Threading and Starting
- Cut a length of floss, often about the length from your fingertips to your elbow. Longer pieces tangle and fray.
- Separate the strands one at a time and put them back together, rather than pulling the whole six-strand piece apart in one go. This helps the thread lie smoothly.
- Thread the needle and knot the end, or use a waste knot or loop start if you prefer a tidier back.
- To finish, weave the tail under several stitches on the back and trim.
Basic Stitches to Learn First
If you are asking what the most basic embroidery stitch is, the running stitch is usually the answer: you simply move the needle up and down along a line. Once it feels comfortable, try these:
- Backstitch: solid lines and outlines.
- Stem stitch: twisted-looking lines, good for curves and flower stems.
- Satin stitch: smooth filled shapes made of parallel stitches.
- French knot: small raised dots for flower centres or eyes.
- Lazy daisy: loop-shaped petals.
A small practice piece with a row of each stitch is a simple way to build confidence before starting a design.
Finishing Your Piece
When the stitching is done, remove the marks according to the pen’s instructions. You can keep the piece in the hoop and trim the fabric to frame it, or take it out and press gently from the back. Hoop-framing is a quick finish many beginners choose.
Common Beginner Problems
- Puckering: the fabric may be loose in the hoop, or stitches may be pulled too tight. Re-hoop and relax your tension.
- Tangled thread: use shorter lengths and let the needle hang now and then to untwist the thread.
- Messy backs: a neat back is nice but not required. Focus on the front while you are learning.
- Uneven stitches: these improve with practice, especially on simple outlines.
Tips for Beginners
- Start small, such as a motif in a 4 to 6 inch hoop.
- Choose forgiving designs like flowers or simple line drawings.
- Work in good light and take breaks to protect your eyes and hands.
- Keep floss organised on cards or bobbins.
What to Stitch First
Good first projects are a sampler of basic stitches, a simple flower, or initials. You will find more in our list of beginner embroidery projects. Some people also stitch on everyday items such as tote bags or pillowcases once they are comfortable.
If you are thinking of selling your work later, our list of handicraft ideas to make and sell is a starting point, and it can help to build skills and a small portfolio first. The business side involves local rules and costs that are worth researching separately.